tretinoin works, but your skin barrier pays for it
Tretinoin is one of the best-studied skin ingredients out there. It can also leave your face dry, flaky and angry, especially in the first few weeks. That rough patch is why plenty of people give up. Here's what may be happening under the surface, and which ingredients could make sense while your skin adjusts.
1. your skin isn't broken. tretinoin is just hard on the barrier at first.
Think of your skin barrier as a brick wall. Skin cells are the bricks, and natural fats are the mortar holding everything together.
Tretinoin speeds up skin cell turnover, and early on it can weaken that wall. That's when dryness, peeling, stinging and redness tend to show up.
“I started using Burnd restore after I let the retinol dry and then again the next morning (before my burnd sunscreen of course)... and wow... I can feel the formula instantly sooth my irritated skin and keep it hydrated all day.”
Addie D., verified buyer, retinol user
In the first 4 weeks of retinoic acid (tretinoin) use, in one long-term study. Source: National Library of Medicine
2. a weak barrier leaks water
When the wall has gaps, water escapes from your skin into the air. Scientists call this transepidermal water loss, but “leaky skin” gets the idea across.
That could be why your face can feel tight even right after moisturizing. So it may help to look for ingredients that slow water loss, not just ingredients that add moisture.
“i've been using it for a few months and my skin is no longer constantly tight and peeling, redness and discoloration has gone down, and i've been told a few times i have glass skin:))”
Austin, extremely dry, sensitive skin
3. squalane is a close cousin of something your skin already makes
Your oil glands naturally produce a lipid called squalene. Squalane is its more stable form, which makes it a popular skincare ingredient.
Because it's so similar to what's already on your skin, it tends to feel light rather than greasy. As an emollient, it can help soften skin and may help slow water loss.
“I found it to be quite effective, leaving my skin glowing and feeling quite hydrated, which can be challenge as I'm using a strong retinol at the moment.”
Verified Amazon buyer, retinol user
4. not all oils are equal. look for linoleic acid.
Linoleic acid is an omega-6 fat that helps support the barrier's natural structure. Oils dominated by oleic acid may be harder on inflamed skin. Source
That's what makes sacha inchi oil interesting. It's a seed oil made up of about 40% linoleic acid and 42% omega-3 linolenic acid, with only about 10% oleic acid.
Approximate % of fatty acids. Olive uses range midpoints. No linolenic figure is listed for argan.
5. when your skin is irritated, a shorter ingredient list makes sense
Every extra ingredient is one more thing your skin could react to. Fragrance is a common place to start cutting.
If you want one extra, vitamin E is a classic antioxidant that also helps protect oils from breaking down.
barrier support may make tretinoin easier to stick with
In one study, the side of the face using a barrier-supporting moisturizer tolerated tretinoin better than the side using a comparison moisturizer. That study tested a different product, but it shows why people pay attention to the barrier. Source
The tretinoin survival kit pairs Restore, made from three plant-based ingredients (squalane, sacha inchi oil and vitamin E), with burnd SPF 41 and Cleanse.
real people, real experiences
I started using Burnd restore after I let the retinol dry and then again the next morning (before my burnd sunscreen of course)... and wow... I can feel the formula instantly sooth my irritated skin and keep it hydrated all day.
I found it to be quite effective, leaving my skin glowing and feeling quite hydrated, which can be challenge as I'm using a strong retinol at the moment.
i've been using it for a few months and my skin is no longer constantly tight and peeling, redness and discoloration has gone down, and i've been told a few times i have glass skin:))
Tretinoin works. The peeling, tightness and sun sensitivity are the price. Three essentials to get your skin through it.
This kit includes three full-size products that hydrate and protect acne-prone skin without clogging pores or interfering with treatment.
- SPF engineered for sweat + water
- cleans deeply without drying skin
- hydrates + supports the skin barrier
- Broad Spectrum SPF41
- Water resistant for 80 minutes
- Highly sweat resistant
- Clear-drying with no white cast
- Non-greasy & formulated to be non-comedogenic
- Designed for long days outside, sport & water activities
- Gentle, hydrating daily cleanser
- Removes sunscreen, makeup & daily build-up
- Clinically shown to improve hydration & skin barrier function
- Cleans without stripping the skin
- Sulfate-free & fragrance-free
- Lightweight daily hydration + barrier support
- Clinically shown to improve skin hydration + barrier function
- Helps soften the look of fine lines caused by dryness
- Made with just 3 plant-based ingredients
- Fast-absorbing + non-greasy
- Formulated to be non-comedogenic
1. Cleanse
Massage Cleanse onto damp skin, then rinse thoroughly.
2. Restore
Apply a few drops of Restore to clean, dry skin and gently massage in for moisturisation, repair and hydration.
3. Protect
Apply SPF41 liberally at least 15 min before sun exposure. If you apply any sunscreen after you’ve already been in the sun for a bit, the sunscreen is not as effective.
Backed by experts
Chief Scientific Officer
Dr. Mark Mitchnick is a physician and accomplished product developer with deep experience in skin and sun care having invented the transparent zinc oxide technology used by many companies today.
With more than three decades of experience across pediatrics, formulation science, complex drug delivery, and global health, Mark’s career has focused on solving real-world problems with rigorous, evidence-based science.
Dermatologist & Dermatopathologist
Dr. Radha Mikkilineni brings 20+ years of dermatology and dermatopathology expertise, blending deep scientific training with a compassionate, evidence-based approach.
Her rare dual certification gives her microscopic insight into how skin truly behaves: what strengthens the barrier, what irritates it, and what actually works. Her guidance ensures every formula is grounded in real skin biology.
Dermatologic Surgeon & Melanoma Specialist
Dr. Mitchell Kline is a nationally recognized expert in melanoma, complex skin cancers, and UV damage, with 30+ years of surgical and clinical experience.
Trained at Penn, Memorial Sloan Kettering, and Weill Cornell (where he now teaches) he’s known for advancing early detection, surgical precision, and UV-protection education.
Formulation Scientist & Biomaterials Engineer
Dr. Kim is a biomedical engineer and formulation scientist specializing in drug delivery, nano- and micro-formulation, and performance materials.
With 10+ years of R&D across leading labs at Cornell, Lehigh, and Penn State, and a Ph.D. from Boston University, she brings deep expertise in polymer synthesis, biomaterials, encapsulation technologies, and preclinical testing.
Frequently asked questions
Can’t find the answer you’re looking for? Check out our full FAQ list or contact us directly with your question.
Tretinoin speeds up skin cell turnover, and early on it can weaken the skin barrier. Dryness, peeling, stinging and redness tend to show up in the first few weeks while your skin adjusts.
When the barrier has gaps, water escapes from your skin into the air (transepidermal water loss). Adding moisture helps less than slowing the loss, which is why emollients like squalane and oils rich in linoleic acid are worth looking for.
Three plant-based ingredients: squalane, sacha inchi oil and vitamin E. No fragrance.
No. Burnd Restore has not been clinically tested with tretinoin or other retinoids. This page is general education, not medical advice. Talk to your prescriber about your routine, including any irritation.
burnd SPF 41, Restore and Cleanse, all full size. Free shipping over $100 and a 100% money-back guarantee if it's not for you.
looking for squalane, sacha inchi oil and vitamin E, without the long ingredient list?
Get all three in the tretinoin survival kit: burnd SPF 41, Restore and Cleanse.
100% money-back guarantee if it's not for you.